Boarded-up shops, desolate cafes and rundown B&Bs, the past 40 years have not been kind to Clacton-on-Sea. Once one of Britain’s favourite resorts, it was voted the worst seaside town in the UK by Which? Magazine in 2019 and 2023.But this summer, with the August 13 by-election nearing, the jaded jewel of the Essex ‘Sunshine Coast’ has hit the headlines as the playground for a political pantomime starring Nigel Farage and Count Binface.Born and bred at the seaside (Southend-on-Sea) and now living in Brighton, I have candy floss running through my veins and get overly nostalgic about tired British resorts. Approaching the Clacton turn-off, I brace myself for a gauntlet of St George flags and Reform placards, but I’m pleasantly surprised by their absence.However, there’s no doubt about it, Clacton is rough around the edges. Faded amusement arcades, tatty hotels and bawdy seafront bars feel more Carry On than cosmopolitan.But for me, that’s the appeal. Ignoring the burnt-out building close to where I park, I’m pleasantly surprised by its wide sandy beaches, neat Victorian gardens and the odd palm tree. Travel writer Tracey Davies visited Clacton-on-Sea, a seaside town in Essex The coastal spot has made headlines for its August 13 by-election featuring Nigel Farage and Count BinfaceFounded in 1871 on the north Essex coast, Clacton was the Barbados of Britain (some say) during its bucket-and-spade heyday in the mid-20th century and a favourite haunt of working-class Londoners, my relatives included. There was even a Butlin’s holiday camp from 1938 to 1983.Yet come the 1970s, when package holidays to the Costas became popular, the seaside town fell into decline.Clacton Pier is the town’s golden goose. Boldly claiming the title of Europe’s biggest pleasure pier – though Southend Pier is the world’s longest – it celebrated its 155th birthday last month.The pier is free and rides start from £2.50, but a ‘Big Day Out’ wristband is good value. Starting from £22.50, it provides a day’s pass to 16 rides including the Looping Star rollercoaster, the log flume and the helter skelter, plus the Clacton Wheel, Jurassic Pier, a 4D cinematic dinosaur encounter, and Adventure Golf.After conquering the rides, I wolf down a sugar-dusted hot doughnut as I wander through the arcades recalling happy times feeding 2ps into coin-push machines when younger.Clacton Pier is rather good. No wonder it’s been shortlisted for the Best Seaside Theme Park in the 2026 UK Theme Park Awards (up against Skegness Pleasure Beach and Dreamland Margate).Clacton’s beaches are another big draw. All have Blue Flag status and even on a blazing summer day, they don’t feel crowded. All of Clacton’s beaches have Blue Flag status and don’t feel too crowded From the top of the Clacton Wheel, you can see all the way to Holland-on-Sea and Frinton-on-Sea. Walkers can follow the scenic coastal trail for two miles to Holland and beyond on the King Charles III England Coast Path.Frinton, three miles further along from Holland to the north-east, is a more sedate resort where Art Deco homes overlook tidy beaches banked by pastel beach huts. Unlike in Clacton, the Reform flags fly freely here, yet there’s a distinct absence of amusement arcades and ice cream parlours.Back in Clackers, I succumb to my craving for fish and chips. Local man, Nigel – not him – recommends John’s Fish Bar on Rosemary Road. Away from the seafront, Clacton’s less than salubrious reputation is much more obvious. Among the boarded-up storefronts, only charity shops, vape outlets and a place that flogs fishing tackle keep going.As for nightlife, I spot several interesting establishments including the Brace of Pistols, the Klub and the curiously named Never Say Die pub. Among the more traditional spots are the Ship Inn in Great Clacton village and the Robin Hood. As for restaurants, Salts by the Sea at Clacton Pavilion serves seafood platters and enjoys smashing sea views. The pier has been shortlisted for the Best Seaside Theme Park in the 2026 UK Theme Park AwardsClacton has ambition. A £30million Civic Quarter redevelopment is underway, alongside plans to transform the 200-year-old Martello Tower into an arts venue.Safely back on the seafront, I sit on a beach with my (excellent) fish supper and watch as families paddle in the sea, happy as clams.Clacton may be a tad jaded but it’s got great beaches, plenty of amusements and a brilliant pier… perfect for an August by-election.