Christopher Nolan’s eagerly awaited epic movie, The Odyssey, was partly filmed in Messenia – a gorgeous corner of Greece that’s perfect for a classical adventure.These days, not much ruffles the calm of Messenia. Tucked away in the south-west of Greece, it’s a world of turquoise bays, mountain monasteries, snowy peaks and 16 million olive trees.But in March 2025 it seemed the Trojan War had re-erupted. This time, however, it was only Nolan, with a crew of 350 and about 100 vehicles, making a film of Homer’s classic tale.The crew settled around the cobalt-blue Navarino Bay, creating monsters and fake fires – and recruiting extras. ‘I was a shepherd,’ one local told me, ‘and a prophet.’It was a perfect place for such a drama. Homer, writing around 2,800 years ago, had known the area well. Being curious about The Odyssey sites – both old and new – I arranged a tour.Gely, my guide from the tour operator Cox & Kings, had a copy of The Odyssey with her. She was also an archaeologist, and at each ancient site she could spot shards of pottery almost as old as Homer himself and the rock obsidian that was used to sharpen arrowheads. Christopher Nolan’s The Odyssey is launching on Friday, starring Matt Damon and Zendaya Part of the highly anticipated movie was filmed in the majestic Messenia region of Greece The upcoming film also stars Anne Hathaway as Penelope and Tom Holland as TelemachusAs to the plot, it’s a bloody and vicious tale. In essence, Odysseus (played by Matt Damon in the film) travels home to his wife, Penelope (Anne Hathaway), after the Trojan War. Thanks to various monsters, nymphs and giants, the trip takes ten years, ranging across the Med.Some of Homer’s story occurred around Navarino Bay. You can swim at the lovely empty beach where Odysseus’ son landed. Telemachus (played by Tom Holland) was in search of his father, and there he met ‘wise King Nestor’.You can also clamber into Nestor’s enormous cave. The king had been famously wealthy, sending ‘90 black ships’ to the siege of Troy in about 1200BC. Best of all is his palace. Although it burned down shortly after the Trojan War, it still feels palatial. Look out for the thousands of cups embedded in the parlour floor.Around the bay, a lot’s changed in 3,000 years. For a start, there are two gigantic castles. For centuries the Venetians and Ottomans fought over them.The first, Palaiokastro (‘Old Castle’, begun in 1278) involves a dizzying climb and offers a panoramic view of Homer’s world. The other fortress is Neokastro (‘New Castle’, built in 1573) above the little town of Pylos. It has almost a mile of ramparts, and its grandiose mosque is now a church. Much of Homer’s story occurred around Navarino Bay, which you can visit, especially the charming town of Pylos The entrance to Nestor’s cave is also on the tourist map, alongside other cinematic attractions Acrocorinth, an ancient archaeological site, was used for filming, and is one of the region’s standout locations to visitAlthough the film’s actors stayed further along the shore at a golfing complex, I was happy in Pylos. The streets dropped steeply into the sea and a medieval aqueduct curled through the town. There was one fancy restaurant, but it was always fun to eat with the locals in the square. Every night they’d gather to play dice, drink wine or parade their dogs. Homer would have loved it.I stayed in Karalis Beach Hotel, by the waterfront. Built in the 1970s, it had a peculiar charm and unforgettable views. Prior to filming, Nolan had stayed in one of the suites. TRAVEL FACTS ‘Heart of Ancient Greece’ 12-day group tours from £3,495pp, including flights, transfers, guides, 4- or 5-star accommodation and some meals, as well as visits to Athens, Delphi and the Meteora region (coxandkingstravel.com). <!- – ad: https://mads.dailymail.co.uk/v8/us/travel/none/article/other/mpu_factbox.html?id=mpu_factbox_1 – ->
Everyone remembered the filming. One scene, with Damon and the Cyclops, was shot at Voidokilia Beach, which must be Europe’s prettiest cove.Another scene was shot at Methoni, seven miles south. Its castle is even bigger than the others, and has its own sub-castle just offshore (you’ll see it in the film). A waitress told me this is where Holland appears in a helmet and skin-tight armour.But perhaps the most dramatic location of all is two hours away, across the Peloponnese. Acrocorinth rises on a rugged hillside with an outlandish fortress perched on top. The crew spent two weeks up here building a vast Trojan door, through which Damon swashbuckles in the film. It’s an exciting place.I was sorry to leave Messenia. Hollywood may have moved on but nowhere else in the world can you feel quite so close to great events, some 3,000 years before.The Odyssey is released in cinemas on Friday, July 17.