Inside the car-free Devon seaside village that’s so pristine you have to pay £10.90 to enter

Visitors to a scenic village in North Devon will discover a world of quaint cottages, cobbled streets and car-free roads – though access to this quiet coastal escape comes at a cost.  

Clovelly – a seaside village set within the North Devon Coast National Landscape (formerly AONB) – remains one of the few privately owned villages in the UK, and is so well-preserved that it still runs how it once did centuries ago. 

The village, which dates back to the 11th century, was reportedly the property of William the Conqueror before it was gifted to his wife, Matilda of Flanders, the first woman to be crowned Queen of England. 

It was acquired by the Giffard family in the 12th century, before it was purchased by the Hamlyn family for £9,438 in 1738. Today, it remains in ownership of Mr John Rous, a descendent of the Hamlyn family. 

What is most unique about the village is its location – on a steep, 400-ft cliffside. Its narrow streets make driving impossible – leading to a complete ban on road vehicles. 

Instead, locals rely on wooden sledges to haul goods and bulky items along the slope.

Donkeys, once the main mode of transport, can still be found in stables at the top of the village, where young visitors have the opportunity to trot along the bay on rides.

Home to around 472 residents, Clovelly prides itself as a quiet destination with a close-knit community – though it doesn’t stop around 150,000 curious tourists from visiting each year. 

Inside the scenic fishing village of Clovelly, North Devon, visitors must pay £10.90 to access its quaint cobbled lanes dotted and picturesque bay (pictured)

Inside the scenic fishing village of Clovelly, North Devon, visitors must pay £10.90 to access its quaint cobbled lanes dotted and picturesque bay (pictured) 

The coastal village is virtually free of road vehicles. Instead, residents rely on wooden sledges to transport bulky goods

The coastal village is virtually free of road vehicles. Instead, residents rely on wooden sledges to transport bulky goods

However, tourism is strictly managed, with all adult visitors charged a £10.90 fee to enter, or £6.25 for children aged between seven and 16. 

This system was established by Mr Rous after he inherited the estate in the 1980s; faced with a significant backlog of repairs, he created the centre to generate funding for the village’s restoration and upkeep.

Once inside, visitors are free to explore its cosy lanes, hidden passageways, craft workshops, and cafés like Clovelly Tea Rooms, or arrange an overnight stay at any one of its two historic hotels: The New Inn and The Red Lion. 

As well as entry to the village, today’s entrance fees include access to Clovelly Court Gardens, Fisherman’s Cottage and Kingsley Museum, general facilities, surrounding walks and picnic spots, and contribution to the care of the donkeys. 

The village also sits above the picturesque, 14th-century Clovelly Quay and its sheltered bay, where small fleets of fishing boats dock in emerald-blue waters that spill onto a pebbled beach.  

At the nearby Red Lion Hotel, guests can take in views of the sea while tucking into fresh lobster and crab. 

Just beyond the bay is a small pebbled beach where visitors can discover a waterfall that cascades down the cliff - and it's said to be the birthplace of the iconic magician, Merlin

Just beyond the bay is a small pebbled beach where visitors can discover a waterfall that cascades down the cliff – and it’s said to be the birthplace of the iconic magician, Merlin 

The village keeps visitor numbers tightly controlled - only 150,000 tourists visit the area each year

The village keeps visitor numbers tightly controlled – only 150,000 tourists visit the area each year 

The village is home to just two museums: the Fisherman's Cottage and Kingsley Museum, dedicated to author Charles Kingsley (pictured)

The village is home to just two museums: the Fisherman’s Cottage and Kingsley Museum, dedicated to author Charles Kingsley (pictured)

Pictured: Fishing boats in the harbour at Clovelly on the Atlantic Ocean coast

Pictured: Fishing boats in the harbour at Clovelly on the Atlantic Ocean coast

Tucked away to the east of the beach is a waterfall that spills down the cliff into the sea. Legend has it that the iconic Arthurian magician, Merlin, was born there.

Just a stone’s throw from the bay is Mouthmill Beach, which can be accessed by heading west along the coastal path for around an hour, though the drive is much quicker at 11 minutes. 

Back in Clovelly, visitors can also learn more about the village by visiting one of its two historic museums: Kingsley Museum, dedicated to author Charles Kingsley, or the Fisherman’s Cottage, which demonstrates how locals lived in the 1930s. 

Clovelly Court Gardens, meanwhile, offer Victorian walled gardens filled with beautiful glasshouses and fruit trees. 

Visitors – especially those with mobility issues – should note that the main street can be extremely steep and slippery, though a paid Land Rover service is available to transport tourists back up from the harbour. 

The village is generally open to visitors from 9am until 5pm during peak seasons, and 10am and 4pm in winter.