It is not the most elegant of arrivals. Having climbed a 7ft gate I believe locked, I land with a thump in the grounds of our villa – only to discover the gate has, in fact, been unlatched all along.
The time is 9.30pm. My wife looks at me and raises her eyebrows. My 18-month-old son Theo does the same.
But we are in. And this is, thankfully, the only low point of a wonderful family holiday – one that offers a chance to see a side of Lanzarote, the fourth-largest Canary Island, away from its bustling resorts, relentless nightlife and full English breakfasts.
We have booked a villa in the island’s quieter southern reaches with Solmar Villas, which has more than 150 properties in Lanzarote (and 2,500 across Europe).
Looking for seclusion and space, we settled on Villa Anyaval, tucked between rugged mountains and the windswept sea.
It’s a modern, two-storey whitewashed building with four sleek, contemporary bedrooms, the occasional exposed stone walls echoing the island’s craggy volcanic landscape.
On arrival we find plush bedding and soft towels. The kitchen has enough utensils for a dinner party.
Outside is an 11m heated pool, along with a day-bed and a hot-tub.
There’s not much else – and, for us, that’s the ultimate luxury. Beside a few chirps from phones, the gnawing stresses from home are forgotten.
Even my embarrassment over the gate debacle fades.
Days beneath sunshine melt into a jumble of exertion and relaxation.
Theo is in his element, leaping into the water and swimming – sort of – without the chaos of other children careering around.
That Anyaval has its own mini playground, complete with slide and swing, is a big bonus.
We enjoy languid afternoons, and when we first venture beyond the gate we stroll to a nearby shop to stock up on wine, cured meats and cheeses.
Villa Anyaval is within easy reach of white-washed villages with low-slung homes such as Yaiza.
This is the gateway to the wonderful Timanfaya National Park, with its stark but beautiful landscape of lava fields and volcanic cones.
A short drive in the other direction brings you to Playa Blanca, a pleasant seaside town.
From here, you can catch ferries to the other islands if you’re feeling adventurous.
But we’re not. Restaurante Secreto del Mar on the promenade, which does a delicious pan con tomate, suits us just fine.
The week passes blissfully and quietly. It is a delight to have seen Lanzarote beyond its high-density hubs, and to have embraced the joy of doing very little at all.
- BOOK IT: Seven nights in Villa Anyaval costs from £2,557. A flight-inclusive package costs from £450pp, with Gatwick flights, based on eight sharing (solmarvillas.com).