When I told my best friend I’d be dragging her out of the comforts of our London apartment and all the way through winding lanes and country roads of Essex to stay in the middle of nowhere – inside an old train, of all places – she was, understandably, unsure.
A holiday inside an old train conjured up images of cramped surroundings, budget bunk beds inside carriages and constant noise and rocking. Not exactly what you’d call glamorous.
Not so here. Despite being perched atop a railway track, this train carriage – or should I say carriages – doesn’t move.
With train tracks, old-fashioned doors, steps to climb up to enter, and a curved roof, it has all the hallmarks of a vintage train – but without any of the drawbacks.
Rather than being confined to one compartment, as one might be if travelling cross-country or across Europe on a steam train, we have the luxury of the entire long carriage all to ourselves.
We’re staying inside a refurbished 1880s railway carriage, the Carriage at High Barn Heritage, in the middle of the Essex countryside at Greenstead Green near Halstead.
When we arrive, I inform her that the carriage doesn’t have Wi-Fi. As two 25-year-olds, we’re connected to our friends, jobs and lives 24/7. It’s slightly daunting to have to disconnect entirely.
The carriage, voted the Best Quirky Holiday Let 2022 and also Sykes Gem Awards 2024 Silver winner for Best Quirky Property, appears relatively standard from the outside, so I question how original it will be.
As I climb the seven steps that lead up to the open-plan living space, I’m more than happy to eat my words.
The doors to the carriage quite literally swing open as I imagine they would have done once to welcome Victorian passengers – and this high up, with views spreading across the green countryside, I feel as though I’m taking a cross-country train ride.
Except the other perk that makes this stay unique is that it’s not merely a tiny train cabin like those you’d book for a long ride – it’s a tiny, one-storey house built to fit within the carriage.
Maintaining the curved roof, train windows and carriage doors of the original, from the outside it looks like a train, while the interior could be any luxury holiday cottage let – a train with all of the perks, and none of the inconveniences.
The living room, which is open plan, is the perfect place for us to settle in.
As we’ve arrived on a rainy Saturday afternoon, we decide it’s the perfect chance to really unwind, and whip out face masks, don our pyjamas, make cups of tea and open a packet of Digestives. A selection of DVDs beckons, and we get comfy on the sofa to watch Calendar Girls.
After an afternoon that can only be described as laziness personified, we decide it’s time for dinner.
The kitchen is equipped with all the appliances we need; from the electric hob and microwave combination oven, to the handy dishwasher and fridge with ice-box; while a separate dining table is where you could host romantic meals.
We forgo the option to dine out and decide to put our new kitchen to the test, whipping up a quick spaghetti arrabbiata for dinner alongside some fresh olives and toasted focaccia with sundried tomatoes.
Accompanied by complimentary prosecco, we enjoy our meal in peace and quiet – without the noise of London raging outside our window, which we’re so accustomed to at home.
After we eat, we’ve had enough of screens, so decide it’s time for a spot of painting. Our phones being firmly switched off and away, we reconnect with our creative sides without the distractions of everyday life getting in the way.
A paint-by-numbers is our evening entertainment until bedtime, where we retire to the carriage’s double bedroom, complete with soft furnishings and crisp bed linen, along with a chest of drawers and hanging space for our clothing.
Steps to the front and back lead to charming outside spaces, with decked areas either side allowing for a breakfast cup of coffee the following morning.
It’s too nippy for us – instead, we opt for coffee and croissants from the comfort of our living room, where we watch the morning sunrise through the train window.
On our final morning, we explore the local area. We go for a long walk through the misty green fields, enjoying the sound of birds chirping and leaves crunching, alongside the mildly farm-like scents and fresh air.
We head to nearby village Great Dunmow – perhaps most famous for its 900-year-old Flitch Trial tradition, where married couples must prove they haven’t argued in a year in order to win a side of bacon.
The town’s pretty historic high street has that charm so many gorgeous English rural regions have, with a blend of medieval and Georgian architecture, a water feature called The Doctor’s Pond and beautiful riverside walks.
TRAVEL FACTS
The Carriage at High Barn Heritage, from £382 for two nights (www.sykescottages.co.uk).
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We enjoy delicious Turkish falafel wraps at Galatea Brasseries, before grabbing a coffee and enjoying pottery painting at unique concept cafe The Chameleon Cafe. We paint mugs, delighted to appease our inner child.
Naturally, this being an English countryside retreat, we have a roast dinner – we opt for The Green Man Lindsell in Dunmow, which has everything you could want from a British pub.
My beef roast comes with all the trimmings – Yorkshire puddings, thick gravy, roast potatoes and vegetables – while my friend’s lamb basically falls off the bone. All washed down with a rich merlot.
The beauty of this kind of holiday is not just the quirky nature of our accommodation – although it truly is one-of-a-kind, as we find ourselves slightly taken aback as we walk towards our carriage after our walk.
There’s something unique about staying inside a train.
It’s not just the comforts and furnishings that make the weekend such a hit – it’s the quiet ambience and immersion in nature.
As Sir David Attenborough once said: ‘It seems to me that the natural world is the greatest source of excitement; the greatest source of visual beauty; the greatest source of intellectual interest. It is the greatest source of so much in life that makes life worth living.’
With not a tourist in sight, and only the occasional dog walker and local passing by, it’s the perfect stay for Brits seeking refuge from the grind of everyday life.
And if you’re keen to holiday with more friends or another couple, you can book the neighbouring Brake Wagon at High Barn Heritage at the same time – a similar train carriage converted into accommodation.
This is a real disconnect – away from the world, the hustle and bustle of daily life, and, perhaps most importantly of all, our phones.